DEliTOUR: El Classico

From the book we realised we had a toss up between Palermo (hip, trendy, big hostels, newer) and San Telmo (older, antique, guest houses) to stay in around Buenos Aires. We plumped for the later and found a sweet and cheap place next to San Telmo's square called Hotel Carly. It had high ceilings, an owner who prompty delivered us black market tickets for the weekends "El Classico" football match between Boca and River, and was on the doorstep of San Telmo's thriving eccentric bar and live music scene - with the antique's market in the square over the road, tango in the streets, music everywhere, endless corner cafes and endless charm - we were chuffed.

We had a bonza five days in BA. We saw musical-style tango at Tortoni's, the old cafe venue, we ate huge meat (well one of us did), drank wine, went to the football, found the Palermo Saturday market (where dozens of bars were filled with student designer clothing stalls), wandered the streets, saw the sights... and, yes, Anna saw her second ever footy match (excluding the mighty Pallo).

We decided to get the bus to the Saturday afternoon game. We got on to find a few quite loutish Boca fans on the bus, who were already missing teeth but enjoying beer. Some young couples in River jereys got on and the Boca fans started to sing and it was fun. Then the bus driver didn't pull over to pick up 25 River fans - we thought that was a good move but then at the next stop he pulled over to pick up about 30 very roudy Boca fans. They were mental. They rushed to the back of the bus, stripped the shirts oif the three River fans who were wearing the white with red sash (think Crystal Palace) and gave them a good beating as they tried to get off the bus. We then piled out with the rest of the passengers. I was keeping very quiet in case my native tongue casued offence and we avoided a beating, even though Anna got sat on during the melee. After a cab ride we got into the 60000 capacity stadium without fuss, watched the reserve match, and then enjoyed the awesome ticker tape parade to start the game, with huge multi-coloured streamers unfurled across the stands all around us. We were in the home end on teh lower tier under the away fans. But the game is such a potential flashpoint that only about 300 Boca fans were allowed in the stadium. The game was awful. River are terrible at the moment and Boca won through a cheap free kick with Juan Roman Riquelme being the only class player on the pitch. He proved it throughout the second half by constantly diving. the reserves looked like world beaters by comparison.

What else in BA? Well we eventually got in touch with Clare and Jorge and found out they live in San Telmo. We had already drubk in their local and we met them over wine and cheese. And, in the squares of BA, we found that memories of the Falklands War are very much alive and there are ongoing protests about the treatment of those that fought and suffered. The city was really enthralling. The steak sandwiches were filling. And our walking legs were willing.